La Virgen de Guadalupe

Hay un dicho en Mexico, a saying.

"Si no crees en la Virgen de Guadalupe, no eres en realidad Mexicano." (If you don't believe in the Virgin of Guadalupe, you aren't truly Mexican.)

Last year I fulfilled una manda, a promise I made to La Morenita. I had promised her I would visit the Basilica and thank her in person if she interceded on my behalf. I had asked for her help in 2006, but unforeseen circumstances forced me to wait two years before making good on my promise to her.

Asking for her help was not new to me. I grew up listening to my Papa Nato, my grandfather, ask for her help. Whenever he asked for her intervention he would send her a gift in care of the Basilica. And every December he also sent a small donation.

So it was that in the early morning hours of Dec. 10, 2008 I was aboard an overnight flight headed to el Distrito Federal...Mexico City.

My original intent was to visit the Basilica on Dec. 12, the anniversary of the miracle of Tepeyac. But after talking with a couple I met at the Guadalajara airport while waiting for a connecting flight, I decided it was best to go on the 11th.

From my hotel I took a taxi to the Basilica. With the surrounding streets closed to traffic, I asked the driver to drop me off as close as possible. I ended up walking four or so blocks.

I made my way among the countless souvenir stands which sold everything from rosaries to T-shirts with images of La Morenita, as well as paintings and sculptures.

Finally, I emerged from the maze of stands where I encountered thousands of people slowly winding their way up the street to the main entrance of Tepeyac, the hill on which the Basilica is built. I joined the peregrinos and walked in silence.

When I finally stepped through the open gates I was awestruck, everywhere my gaze fell were peregrinos. The vast majority carried paintings or statues of La Virgen.

I made my way into the cathedral that is home to Juan Diego's tilma which held the roses and where underneath those same roses was the image of La Virgen de Guadalupe, patroness of Mexico and all the Americas.

The church was packed. Taking a spot in the back, I decided to stay for the Mass. During this time of year, Masses are held every hour. Young girls in their school uniforms walk around carrying baskets filled with small cards bearing the image of the Virgen, which are sold for a donation of 10 pesos.

When the Mass ended, I joined the never-ending sea of humanity that shuffled toward the front of the church to pay homage to La Virgen.

It took more than an hour to reach the front - which was covered in red roses - gifts brought by the people for La Virgen. Before I knew it, I was getting ready to step onto one of the five or so people-movers that slowly pass in front of the image of La Virgen, which had the Mexican flag draped below it.

I gazed up her, thanking her for all she has done for me, for protecting me and those I love. I told her it would not be my last visit. Like so many others I snapped a few photos before stepping off the people-mover.

I spent the entire day on the grounds of the Basilica de Santa Maria de Guadalupe. Tepeyac is home to the new Basilica built in the mid-70s, la Basilica Antigua - which during my visit was undergoing renovation and shrouded in scaffolding - and numerous other chapels as well as numerous statues. All of it awe-inspiring.

But what struck me the most were the people. The majority had traveled untold miles by foot, others by bicycle, some came on their knees, others with large paintings strapped to their backs. There was one man dressed in the white shirt and pants reminiscent of a peasant from a bygone era, who was on his knees and blindfolded aided by two women on either side holding his arms, guiding his every step.

Words cannot do justice to what I experienced while there. I do know I won't forget the visit.

La Virgen de Guadalupe has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. I ask for her protection and guidance every day. She is part of my spiritual life. And as I told her, I will be back to visit and thank her for all she does for me.